Rudder (5hrs)
Sec 7-3 at Steps 2 & 3: Cleco doublers, rudder control horn and bottom rib onto Rudder spar. Final drill (ie ream) with #40 drill all the 1/8 holes with doublers. Disassemble, then deburr. Took about one hour....mostly due to deburring all the holes and edges.
Onto Sec 7-4 at Steps 1 & 2: prep Rudder skins. Working on Right side first, removing noted edge, and dimpling one hole along top edge. Then Steps 3 - 5 for Left side Rudder skin. Remove small tab, and dimple one hole along top edge also. Deburred both skin along all edges. Long process requiring extra care due to relatively thin aluminum sheet. I used long file for most of the effort, instead of scotchbrite wheel on grinder.
Left skin has flange that overlaps other side at top front, so performed ever so slightly bend edge with roller tool. This minimizes edge rising up and gapping when later riveted.
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| Note slight difference in reflection along top edge above 3 holes. |
Sec 7-4: Steps 6-9: Cleco & final drill (ream) #30 holes in Top Rib and Counterbalance Rib. Then deburr... Interesting part was mounting the lead weight (counterweight for rudder). #12 hole match drilled into rib. Then dimpled to accept the AN509 countersink screw. I used #12 Countersink on lead weight per instructions. Then, since I did not have #10 dimple set, I sought guidance from
Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools . He gave me easy solution: use my #8 dimple set that is very close, and simply insert countersink screw into dimple, with lead weight backing up the rib. With proper support a couple moderate hammer blows set the head in just a small amount deeper to a flush level. Perfect. Thanks Mike !
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| Dimples in rib, countersinks in lead weight |
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| This is side for washer and nut... |
