Empennage Fairings ( 3 hrs )
Layed up my first fiberglass "sheet" - two layers of 9 oz ( medium weight ). Per instructions, selected scrap aluminum and marked outline, then waxed surface using candle wax. The green cloth is nylon release ply. Since not sure this will work well, I've layed extra material to test. Using West System 105 Resin, and 206 slow Hardener. Also purchased West System pump pack, which makes dispensing correct amounts really simple and clean. The exposed surface seems to be smooth enough for the inside surface anyway. Otherwise, repeated trimming RH Tip just as I did yesterday for LH. Drilled #40, then Final Drilled via #30 reamer. This side seemed to go quicker since I learned considerably from LH Tip.
I've started my adventure to build a Van's Aircraft RV14a. For several years, I've been planning to build an Experimental (homebuilt) airplane - once retired.
But first, I needed to get my Pilot's License. (Kinda key !) So... first things first: I retired March 2014 from Caterpillar - and started flying lessons in the Summer of 2014. Soloed a day after Christmas, and got my Private July 2015. Shop set up, tools acquisition, and practise kits during Fall launched me into my build starting Dec 31, 2015 !
I've chosen to build the RV14a since it's about 10% larger than Van's prior models - so it fits my 6'4" frame well. Van's is well known for great value & outstanding flying qualities. It's been a no brainer decision for me. A tour of their facilities and demo flight in Oct 2013 clinched the deal. My wife - also a pilot - exclaimed after her demo flight "retire NOW so you can build one of these". The RV14a fits my mission of a good compromise between cross country & aerobatics. Plus...I fit, too.
So far, one month into building, it's been rewarding. Very challenging, but certainly a learning experience. The builder community is terrific - as is Van's tech support. I'm finished with the Vert Stab and Rudder (Jan 2016). So... with a 5 month delivery lead time, I've ordered the Quick Build Wings and Fuselage.
I hope this blog assists other new builders, just like several others have been valuable to me. Plus it will serve to document my build step by step. Please drop me a line via the "contact me" form on lower RH margin.
Update: April 2020 relocated to Wickenburg, Az to escape Illinois winters.
Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Tuesday, August 30, 2016
Empennage
Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )
Sect 12-06. Trimmed Horiz Stab Tip Fairing to fit LH side. Lots of iterations (can't add material back easily) to accomplish 1/8" gap. I created a "template" to transfer front edge of Elevator to rear edge of Tip. Once trimmed, I then removed 1/8" for clearance...checking swing clearance of elevator as I progressed.
Drilled #40, then FD #30 reamer, using cleco's as I progressed. Cut template for the fiberglass sheet to fit just inside - slightly recessed for best clearance as Elev swings up and down.

Sect 12-06. Trimmed Horiz Stab Tip Fairing to fit LH side. Lots of iterations (can't add material back easily) to accomplish 1/8" gap. I created a "template" to transfer front edge of Elevator to rear edge of Tip. Once trimmed, I then removed 1/8" for clearance...checking swing clearance of elevator as I progressed.
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1 transfer front edge Elev to Tip. |
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2 trimmed. |
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3 adding 1/8" clearance line |
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4 Clearance accomplished |
Drilled #40, then FD #30 reamer, using cleco's as I progressed. Cut template for the fiberglass sheet to fit just inside - slightly recessed for best clearance as Elev swings up and down.

Empennage
Empennage Fairings ( 2.5 hrs ) Monday, Aug 29
Completed blind riveting LH and RH Elev Tips. First C'Sunk holes in RH Tip, and dimpled RH Elev. Added cyanoacrylate to each fiberglass hole...it really strengthens the fibers surrounding the hole, since very thin after C'sinking each. This enables fiberglass to be brought up to Elev surface without "stripping out" the holes with clecos, or the blind rivets when inserted. Had time to prepare LH and RH Horiz Tip fairings to 1/2" flanges.
Completed blind riveting LH and RH Elev Tips. First C'Sunk holes in RH Tip, and dimpled RH Elev. Added cyanoacrylate to each fiberglass hole...it really strengthens the fibers surrounding the hole, since very thin after C'sinking each. This enables fiberglass to be brought up to Elev surface without "stripping out" the holes with clecos, or the blind rivets when inserted. Had time to prepare LH and RH Horiz Tip fairings to 1/2" flanges.
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Dimpled & Countersunk. Ready to blind rivet. |
Thursday, August 25, 2016
Empennage
Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )
Dimpled LH Elevator skins at Tip mounting holes. Required removal of Counterweights to access most forward holes - so re-installed with new lock nuts & retorqued. This time I applied JB Weld epoxy adhesive to each counterweight to reduce likelihood of ever coming loose. Very carefully countersunk each fiberglass hole. These have to be deep enough for the dimples, but not too deep to start enlarging the holes !
When re-assembling Tip with clecos - I discovered a couple holes on top and bottom near center had the cleco "pull through". Due to countersinks, insufficient fiberglass at those holes to pull the shell outward 1/4 inch toward the skins (during drilling I used wood spacers temporarily to push Tip outward to skin surfaces...but didn't want to leave them inside unless absolutely necessary. So I reinforced hole perimeters with cyanoacrylate - then cleco's pulled fiberglass shells outward so flush with skin. Yeah ! ( Van's should design/process the Tips so actually oversized in center area...so would require lightly squeezing between top and bottom skins...instead of having to pull outward ) Expect OK when I blind rivet these next.
Dimpled LH Elevator skins at Tip mounting holes. Required removal of Counterweights to access most forward holes - so re-installed with new lock nuts & retorqued. This time I applied JB Weld epoxy adhesive to each counterweight to reduce likelihood of ever coming loose. Very carefully countersunk each fiberglass hole. These have to be deep enough for the dimples, but not too deep to start enlarging the holes !
When re-assembling Tip with clecos - I discovered a couple holes on top and bottom near center had the cleco "pull through". Due to countersinks, insufficient fiberglass at those holes to pull the shell outward 1/4 inch toward the skins (during drilling I used wood spacers temporarily to push Tip outward to skin surfaces...but didn't want to leave them inside unless absolutely necessary. So I reinforced hole perimeters with cyanoacrylate - then cleco's pulled fiberglass shells outward so flush with skin. Yeah ! ( Van's should design/process the Tips so actually oversized in center area...so would require lightly squeezing between top and bottom skins...instead of having to pull outward ) Expect OK when I blind rivet these next.
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
Empennage
Empennage Fairings ( 3 hrs )
Worked on LH and RH Elevator Tips (sect 12-05)...trimming to fit at TE, and reduced flanges to 1/2". Very satisfying to see good fit up along entire edge of Elevator(s). Drilled #30 holes in both, cleco'ing as I went. ( Note: added simple wood blocks as temporary spacers to spread fiberglass tips in middle section for good fit prior to drilling ). Used reamer to Final Drill the #40 holes for RH. Ready to do same for LH, but decided to go swimming instead !
Worked on LH and RH Elevator Tips (sect 12-05)...trimming to fit at TE, and reduced flanges to 1/2". Very satisfying to see good fit up along entire edge of Elevator(s). Drilled #30 holes in both, cleco'ing as I went. ( Note: added simple wood blocks as temporary spacers to spread fiberglass tips in middle section for good fit prior to drilling ). Used reamer to Final Drill the #40 holes for RH. Ready to do same for LH, but decided to go swimming instead !
Monday, August 22, 2016
Empennage
Empennage Fairings (3 hrs )
Added flock to epoxy, then adhered doubler to Bottom Fairing along with 2 flush blind rivets. Used toothpicks to keep epoxy out of 2 tapped holes. Moved to Sect 12-05 Rudder Tip -- trimmed to 1/2 inch and removed tail area to clear T.E. Once satisfied with fit, drilled 18 holes (#40 followed by #30). Then dimpled skin, and machine C'sunk the fiberglass...and blind riveted. Pleased with excellent fit and very solid attachment.
Added flock to epoxy, then adhered doubler to Bottom Fairing along with 2 flush blind rivets. Used toothpicks to keep epoxy out of 2 tapped holes. Moved to Sect 12-05 Rudder Tip -- trimmed to 1/2 inch and removed tail area to clear T.E. Once satisfied with fit, drilled 18 holes (#40 followed by #30). Then dimpled skin, and machine C'sunk the fiberglass...and blind riveted. Pleased with excellent fit and very solid attachment.
Saturday, August 20, 2016
Empennage
Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )
Sect 12-03 - Added Rudder Fairing Doubler (alum) to Rudder Bottom ...to ultimately mount LED taillight. This is last major step involving the Bottom fiberglass - so drilling and cutting into this area now was a little intimidating. (don't want to start this over!) So proceeded cautiously...and it turned out fine. I was extra careful tapping the small 4-40 threads in this thin doubler...especially aluminum. Not convinced these threads are robust...so I'll be seeking some alternatives to re-inforce.
Sect 12-03 - Added Rudder Fairing Doubler (alum) to Rudder Bottom ...to ultimately mount LED taillight. This is last major step involving the Bottom fiberglass - so drilling and cutting into this area now was a little intimidating. (don't want to start this over!) So proceeded cautiously...and it turned out fine. I was extra careful tapping the small 4-40 threads in this thin doubler...especially aluminum. Not convinced these threads are robust...so I'll be seeking some alternatives to re-inforce.
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Set up for tapping 4-40 threads in doubler. I hand turned chuck while applying steady modest down force. Whew...A-OK ! |
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Ready to bond with epoxy while installing via 2 blind rivets. |
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