Steevo's RV14a Build Log: 01/22/16

I've started my adventure to build a Van's Aircraft RV14a. For several years, I've been planning to build an Experimental (homebuilt) airplane - once retired.

But first, I needed to get my Pilot's License. (Kinda key !) So... first things first: I retired March 2014 from Caterpillar - and started flying lessons in the Summer of 2014. Soloed a day after Christmas, and got my Private July 2015. Shop set up, tools acquisition, and practise kits during Fall launched me into my build starting Dec 31, 2015 !

I've chosen to build the RV14a since it's about 10% larger than Van's prior models - so it fits my 6'4" frame well. Van's is well known for great value & outstanding flying qualities. It's been a no brainer decision for me. A tour of their facilities and demo flight in Oct 2013 clinched the deal. My wife - also a pilot - exclaimed after her demo flight "retire NOW so you can build one of these". The RV14a fits my mission of a good compromise between cross country & aerobatics. Plus...I fit, too.

So far, one month into building, it's been rewarding. Very challenging, but certainly a learning experience. The builder community is terrific - as is Van's tech support. I'm finished with the Vert Stab and Rudder (Jan 2016). So... with a 5 month delivery lead time, I've ordered the Quick Build Wings and Fuselage.

I hope this blog assists other new builders, just like several others have been valuable to me. Plus it will serve to document my build step by step. Please drop me a line via the "contact me" form on lower RH margin.

Update: April 2020 relocated to Wickenburg, Az to escape Illinois winters.

Friday, January 22, 2016

Empennage

Rudder (3.5 hrs )

Step 1 on page 7-10. Inserted spar assly into rudder skins & riveted into shear webs using LP4-3 blind rivets (18).

Blind rivets at shear webs. Univ heads from prior assl'y at hinge doublers, w/ nutplate for rod end bearing (hinge)

Step 2: Added Attach Strip to bottom rib of LH skin. Really difficult to get to shop head near aft end. So, per instructions, spread TE skins slightly. Unfortunately, these were just "adhered" from prior steps via 3M UHB tape...but did separate, and appear to re-attach. My 1/4" thk small bucking bar (even ground down to thinner corner) barely fit and was NOT sufficient to swell shop ends of 3/32 rivets - even with tungsten bucking bar back up. Eventually spread enough to use Main Squeeze with thin set. Whew...done, but a real challenge.

Step 3: More blind riveting along bottom rib. Also showing in pic above.

Step 4: Rudder Horn brace installed. Satisfying - since I could access all rivets using Main Squeeze tool.

Long set in Main Squeeze just barely enabled access to set Univ head rivets.

Step 5: Remaining 3/32 rivets at edges along bottom done. Only need to complete along Spar before moving on to next page.

Empennage

Rudder (1.5 hrs)

Completed all of page 7-9, steps 1-5. Blind rivet shear clips & stiffeners together joining LH skin onto RH skin. My wife was great assistance to "peel up" LH skin for access, as I worked from bottom to top, adding clecos at TE. These steps cannot be done alone ! The instructions are to insert only 1 into the aft stiffener location, hence the reminder X on the drawing.

Key is checking that the LH skin's stiffener at the aft location is on top, while the shear clips in front are on top of both stiffeners.

As we worked from bottom stiffeners toward top, we removed covering from adhesive a few inches at a time, shifting clecos from bottom skin/TE to capture all 3 layers from top side. ...ie LH/TE/RH skin.

Finished with weights on TE while tape adhesive sets up. Using large alum angle already screwed to table edge, with another large alum angle on top, prior to adding boards and weights - all to keep TE straight.

Empennage

Rudder (4 hrs)

Page 7-8 Step 1: Back rivet stiffeners to RH skin, then stiffeners to LH skin.

Pic below shows tapes over rivets after inserted. Turned over skin, added stiffeners and proceeded to back rivet.

Primed only at rivet lines. Ran out of Napa 7220, finished with Duplicolor "green".

Step 2: Add bottom rib -B and Attach Strip to RH rudder skin. [ see pic below]

Note: no primer under TE location since taped off per instructions. This enables tape adhesive to stick to aluminum instead of paint for better bonding)

Step 3 page 7-8: Blind rivet shear clips to RH side stiffeners/skin assembly.

Step 1 on page 7-9: Applied 3M VHB tape to both sides of TE wedge. First cleaned with acetone. Let tape adhesive set up for 20 min. Then peeled off covering on tape to apply to RH skin. Careful aligning with dimpled skin to C'sink TE wedge. Cleco'd 100%, then let adhesive set up on RH skin/TE interface. No picture...