Avionics

Discrete #3 for Canopy Warning, LH Joystick fix (3 hrs)

Received extractor tool from Stein Air so I could switch wires in connector J244 on GEA24.  Switched wires at Pin 41 and Pin 42, so Purple/Blu wire now at #42 = Discrete #3.  (and Purple/Grn is now at Pin 41, for Discrete #2).  Needed to align Discrete #3 with code within Canopy Warning program from Vans  (recently uploaded into G3X).   Also checked all 9 pins in LH Joystick connector:  confirmed need to switch wires in Pin 1 (black) and Pin 2 (orange) for correct Trim Up vs Trim Down to be same as RH Joystick.   Kevin (owner of Tosten grips) has been helpful, and is sending new Molex pins to crimp on when I switch wires.   Confirmed AP/CWS switch failure to work is not in joystick, but LH Common Fuse Harness.  Josh at Stein Air helped explore fix.  Seems best option is to install jumper from LH 50 pin connector Pin #3 to RH 50 Pin Connector Pin #18.   OR...run wire from Pin 9 in Common Fuse Harness at LH Joystick to RH Joystick Pin #9 wire (ie joystick to joystick).  Learned this wire sends signal to AP servos...not IP...so not connected to anything at panel.   tbd....!

J244 connector at GEA24 partially dis-assembled, but prior
 to swap Purple/Blu with Purple/Grn. 
 This aligned Discrete #3 w/ Canopy Warning program.

Success!  Canopy Warning appears as "Check Canopy".  Flashes
 for about 5 seconds, then steady on.  Above 1700 RPM, should
also hear audio warning.   (Other warnings due to engine
 not running, etc.) [sorry- hard to get focused pics of display]

Notes documenting Pin and wire color

for LH Joystick

Avionics

Instrument Color Markings ( 3 hrs )

Surprised limited info in Lycoming manuals, or via Vans, or VAF postings to recommend green, yellow and red color markings on G3X instrumentation.   So I gathered from those resources as much as possible, consulted with local experts Terry Moushon (Tech Counseler and builder RV10) and Bill Lane (RV 7 builder).   Lycoming test results for my engine were helpful (showing max and min Limits on several parameters).  Included pics below from powerpoint I created.   Setting up on G3X is almost fun.  I can refine these after first flights...but seem good starting point.

Camera doesn't focus well on display.... 
W/o Wings attached, don't have fuel tank senders connected, etc.

Avionics and Finish Kit

Canopy Warning & G3X config ( 3 hrs )

Received 24"x 36" cargo net w/ 2"x 2" mesh, 4mm bungee cord.  Came with 10 plastic hooks, but only using 5 (nice to have spares).  Good quality & seems good solution....for about $21 via Amazon.  Tah Dah !   I've been communicating several times with Vans builder support about the Canopy Warning file for the G3X.  Although followed Vans G3X Touch Canopy Warning Read Me file explicitly, I couldn't get my G3X to show the correct file after upload.   Vans finally clarified the Read Me file is wrong on step 11, page 2.  The G3X will display a file "RV14 G3XT options Config Rev 1" -- NOT the file "Canopy Warning R2.gca".   So...mine was working all along!   Otherwise trying to resolve issues with LH Joystick AP/CWS switch and Pitch Trim switch (RH is perfect!). Still consulting with Josh at Stein Air and Kevin at Tosten prod support.   At least some other Config issues have been resolved.

Added cargo net to hold loose small items

This is correct file for Canopy Warning upload to G3X.

Need to fix LH Joystick issues...

Getting more comfortable with set up via Config "folders"

Finish Kit and Avionics

Seat Belts and G3X Config ( 5 hrs )

Adjusted Seat Belt Harnesses for correct lengths for both my wife and I.   Workrd on G3X configuration/set ups.   Discovered LH joystick had Flap switch reversed vs RH joystick (RH agrees with panel mounted Flap switch direction).  So, contacted Stein Air, who consulted with Tosten  (grip source for switches and wiring).  Determined I could loosen switch bezel on grip, rotate switch 180 degrees.  Works correctly now.   Then I discovered the AP/CWS (autopilot/control wheel steering) switch is not working on LH joystick....and Pitch trim up/down is reversed vs RH joystick (but both have same Left and Right aileron trim movement).   Seems LH joystick has been assembled wrong...or connector on main harness in Fuse has a major problem.  Generated 5 pages of notes for follow up with Stein Air and Tosten after Memorial Day.

After loosening, then rotating small toggle switch
 on LH joystick, now operating same directions as
RH Joystick, and panel mounted Flap switch.
 (replaced red cap on toggle after pic)

Finish Kit

Joysticks and Boots ( 1 hr )

Installed LH Joysticks and both Boots.  In order to make it easier to install 3 screws at bottom of Boot, used some scrap thin, flexible plastic to make "keepers" or retainers.   Worked great.

Bottom side showing plastic retainers.   It would be a
bummer to loose screw into area below joystick! 
Sure did make attaching boot to Cover panel easier.

Boot attached.   Looks great.  I like to grey
 stitches accenting the black material.

Finish Kit

Seats, Harnesses, Joysticks ( 4 hrs )

Installed Seats and Seat Backs, Baggage carpet, and Floormats "semi-permanently" by positioning, then removing backing from self-adhesive Velcro strips.  Several required trimming to avoid screw heads  -- so more time consuming than expected.  Installed Joystick Boots (initially w/o Joysticks) to confirm fit.  Each secured with 3 screws that are challenging to access.   Removed RH Boot so I could install Joystick with 2 AN3-14A bolts.  Boot slips over top of control grip...but I'm dreading re-attaching w/ the 3 screws with the joystick installed...so saved for another day.   Pleased with interior -- the Crow 5 point harness looks great.

Checked Boot attachment prior to actually installing Joystick.

Tosten Joystick assembly (option from Vans) pre-wired.  Sweet!

Showing LH without Seat cushion.  Black strips are Velcro.

Finish Kit

Interior Panels ( 2 hrs )

Installed remaining panels in cockpit per Sect 42.   Added 5 nylon straps in baggage area for future (tbd...) cargo net.  Made from 1" nylon strap, cut to 6" lengths using "hot knife" so ends are "sealed".  Doubled over, and pushed hot nail through for mounting holes.  Included rubber washers to help spread the load.   Three are screwed into existing nutplates at rear panel, and at Flap Cover.  Two were riveted in toward front outboard areas.  I saw similar approach in VAF postings.  Plan to purchase a rectangular cargo net, with hooks in corners.   My 5th in center front may not be needed, but easier to add now than once in hangar.

3 of 5 loops created for holding Cargo Net 
( 2 on left were riveted )

2 at rear.  Can move lower or higher along screw positions.
(Not installing all screws now in panels, since removing
for Airworthiness Inspection soon)

Showing 2 of 3 along front.  Center one can be raised...tbd. 
Outer 2 needed to be riveted, since no nutplates near corners.

1st time Panels actually screwed into place

Engine

Fuel System Leak resolved...finally! ( 3 hrs )

Continued trying to find fuel system leak (not holding 30 psi air pressure).  Used "Mega Bubble Leak Detector" (blue fluid).  Supposed to detect micro leaks.  But I tested first on a joint gradually loosened - didn't seem much better than simple soap bubbles (maybe identifies leak at 1/2 rate, but my rate is approx 1/10).  Decided to try anyway...first re-checking firewall forward, then behind firewall.  When I added the liquid to the the pipe thread joint between filter and boost pump - I actually heard a light hiss with my ear about 6" away.  Never produced bubbles.  Neither did soap bubbles over last two days numerous times.   This was same joint I already re-did couple days ago.  But I tightened further another 1/3 turn...and Tah Dah !   Holding 30 psi for 2 hours !   Probably should have started with a mechanics stethoscope.  I now hate pipe thread joints !   Next, I started installing interior panel per Sect 43.  Installed Crotch belts for 5 point harness.

Installed inspection panels in baggage area, then added Carpet
from Flightline Interiors.  Perfect fit!

Installed wall panels and armrests from Flightline Interiors.
Added Crotch Straps.  Panels on floor haven't been screwed
down yet.

Engine and Avionics

Final Mounted Snorkel, LED interior lighting, and STILL can't find Fuel System Leak ! ( 4 hrs )

Removed Snorkel (air intake plenum) from fuel servo so I could remove tape at throttle interface (added more than year ago to keep engine "sealed").  Tightened four 1/4" bolts, then safety wired.  Ref 47-17 and 47-22, Step 15.  Also Configured Lighting in G3X for Red and White LED strips on canopy.  In Config mode, selected Cockpit Lighting, then chose PWM Lighting Bus 1, and Input 2 for White LED.  Set 0% at 0.0v, and 100% at 12V.  Same for Red LED, except Bus 2, Input 1.  (After pics taken, I revised setting 30% at 7v for each, so lower portion is easier to modulate...ie non-linear.  Pic shows original linear input vs output plot).    Still haven't found tiny leak in fuel system (approx 15 psi in 30 min) ...after another 3 hrs with multiple doses of soap bubbles .  Connected test equip at input to fuel filter, and got same leak rate - proving fuel valve is NOT source of leak.  Re-checked thoroughly every joint from Wing connection to fuel servo...with lots of soap bubbles.  NO joy!  Totally encapsulated w/ soap bubbles the mechanical fuel pump, electric fuel pump, and  Red Cube fuel transducer - trying to detect poor gasket, crack, etc. No joy.    So I loosened a connection on test equip, and was surprised although covered in soap bubbles - it didn't "indicate" a leak until I opened a much higher rate of 1 psi drop per 1-2 seconds !  Vans product support wasn't much help today...indicating soap bubbles should work. (Sterling did suggest dunking entire fuselage in my swimming pool, and look for bubbles ...ha !)  Another builder (Bill Lane, who's been very helpful) suggested I purchase gas leak detection "blue" fluid (available in hardware stores).  It may work better.   One advertises capable of magnifying micro-gas leaks as small as 0.65 oz/year into visible foam "cocoons".  Wow!  IF this doesn't work, I'll have to wait until Wings attached, fuel tanks connected - so I can test for leaks with aviation fuel.  VAF has tips to use white paper towels at connections, to show the blue stains from dye in avgas.

blue tape over drainage hole in plenum...with
hanging portion to insure removal prior 1st start.

 

 Red LED for night flights ....dimmed to medium intensity

White LED...good for general purpose in hangar, etc 
Red and White dimmer switches are in upper LH corner of panel

with Canopy raised, serves as overall interior lighting. 
This is at less than 1/2 intensity

Spent hours covering joints in soap bubbles,
inspecting w/ lights and mirrors.  No joy...yet.

Engine and Avionics

EGT sensors connected ( 2 hrs )

Per Sect 48-07,  Steps 1-3 completed wiring connections to 4 EGT sensors.  Added safety wire to hose clamps per Alcon Tempest instructions per their recommendation.

front Right EGT sensor connected

back Right EGT sensor prior  pulling
protection sleeve over connections

Overall pic of Right side.  ( note: Spark plug wires not
connected for LH magneto...still have desiccant plugs installed)

Left side.  ( The automotive plugs are installed on bottom
 on this side for PMAG electronic ignition)

Engine

EGT sensors (and more Fuel System leaking ? )  ( 3 hrs )

Back to trying to find leak in Fuel System !  At first, thought yesterdays leak discovered and repaired completely solved Fuel System "leak"...but after 1 hr, the 30 psi air pressure slowly dropped.  So today repeated - and now won't hold pressure for more than couple minutes.  Redoubled efforts with lots more soapy suds...thoroughly covering every possible joint or leak path -- No joy.  To confirm not test equipment, I positioned Fuel Valve to OFF...and it held pressure.  So considering if internal leak in valve from LH to RH side. But tested for air transfer to RH side (tube added to fuselage fitting, ending under water...no bubbles!) -- again No joy.   So tomorrow I'll try to isolate (remove hose to engine fuel pump, cap and test that section)...with more soap bubbles.   Meanwhile installed all 4 EGT sensors Type K thermocouple (from Garmin G3X sensor kit, Alcor Tempest #86255, which is Garmin #494-70001-00).  Reamed holes (pleased already drilled in exhaust tubes) w/ #30 reamer since press fit.  Need to finish wiring connectors, add safety wire.

re-checking for leaks in fuel system...

getting frustrated....total immersion seeking possible leak
in "red cube" fuel transducer itself, as well as connections

EGT sensor installed, still need to connect wiring.
Sensor is press fit into #30 hole...so tight and leak free

Left side  (not yet connected to brown thermocouple wires

Right side

Added pic of sensor for reference.

Engine

Exhaust and Fuel System ( 2 hrs )

Completed Heating System w/ last DG-12 adel clamp on engine mount tube, attaching DG-32 holding 2" SCAT hose to LH Vent.  Finally...yay!  Repeated 30 psi air pressure leak test of LH Fuel System (I ordered/received AN 6 sized cap for RH side to insure not leaking during test).  Using soap suds, discovered tiny leak between Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter on pipe threads.  Disassembled, re-applied thread sealant - and NO leaks for 1 hr.

2" SCAT hose routed to LH Vent.  Clamps
position hose clear of  potential rub points

Discovered tiny air leak at pipe threads during pressure
 test (center of pic).  Bubble grew over couple minutes. 
Removed inline filter from Fuel Pump, re-applied
 pipe thread...no leak.

Engine

Exhaust ( 3 hrs )

Installed lock washers under Exhaust flange nuts, & torqued to 190 in-lbs per 48-03, Step 7 & 8.  Needed special 1/4" drive, 1/2" flex socket -- only way to fit onto nuts since exhaust pipe clearance is minimal (VAF has posts noting other builders found same solution.  Surprised Vans instructions don't call out this tool requirement)  Added Sniffle Line Assly per 49-18, Steps 1-6.  Required adding Bottom Cowl Support Bracket plus couple more adel clamps.

1/4" drive, 1/2" flex socket barely fits...
to tighten exhaust flange nuts

Added heat shields in 3 locations

bottom view of heater 2" SCAT hose behind
engine toward LH vent

Sniffle Line Assembly installed.  Yellow cap has blue tape to insure I remove prior to 1st  engine start 

Engine

Heat Muffs, etc ( 3 hrs )

Completed Step 6, Sect 48-05 - 2" Vent Tee.  Limited space to 1st install two Adel clamps to engine mount tubes, then very large Adel Clamps around 2" Vent.  Used safety wire to hold clamps in position.  Overall took a lot of time to get positioned correctly - and lots of various tools!   Glad that's done !

Using tool to hold clamp closed so I can
hold closed w/ safety wire

In the end, I used many tools to get  'er done.

close up showing clamps secured

And overall shot showing 2" SCAT hose routing 

Engine

Heat Muffs ( 3 hrs )

Installed Heat Muff assemblies per Sect 48-04, Steps 1-6.  Added couple of the SCAT 2" hoses per 48-05.

1 of 2 heat muffs added.

Both heat muffs added, & interconnecting SCAT hose installed

hose connected for air intake