I've started my adventure to build a Van's Aircraft RV14a. For several years, I've been planning to build an Experimental (homebuilt) airplane - once retired.
But first, I needed to get my Pilot's License. (Kinda key !) So... first things first: I retired March 2014 from Caterpillar - and started flying lessons in the Summer of 2014. Soloed a day after Christmas, and got my Private July 2015. Shop set up, tools acquisition, and practise kits during Fall launched me into my build starting Dec 31, 2015 !

I've chosen to build the RV14a since it's about 10% larger than Van's prior models - so it fits my 6'4" frame well. Van's is well known for great value & outstanding flying qualities. It's been a no brainer decision for me. A tour of their facilities and demo flight in Oct 2013 clinched the deal. My wife - also a pilot - exclaimed after her demo flight "retire NOW so you can build one of these". The RV14a fits my mission of a good compromise between cross country & aerobatics. Plus...I fit, too.

So far, one month into building, it's been rewarding. Very challenging, but certainly a learning experience. The builder community is terrific - as is Van's tech support. I'm finished with the Vert Stab and Rudder (Jan 2016). So... with a 5 month delivery lead time, I've ordered the Quick Build Wings and Fuselage.

I hope this blog assists other new builders, just like several others have been valuable to me. Plus it will serve to document my build step by step. Please drop me a line via the "contact me" form on lower RH margin.
Update: April 2020 relocated to Wickenburg, Az to escape Illinois winters.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Empennage

Rudder (5hrs)

Sec 7-3 at Steps 2 & 3:  Cleco doublers, rudder control horn and bottom rib onto Rudder spar.  Final drill (ie ream) with #40 drill all the 1/8 holes with doublers.   Disassemble, then deburr.  Took about one hour....mostly due to deburring all the holes and edges.



Onto Sec 7-4 at Steps 1 & 2:   prep Rudder skins.   Working on Right side first, removing noted edge, and dimpling one hole along top edge.   Then Steps 3 - 5 for Left side Rudder skin.  Remove small tab, and dimple one hole along top edge also.   Deburred both skin along all edges.  Long process requiring extra care due to relatively thin aluminum sheet.   I used long file for most of the effort, instead of scotchbrite wheel on grinder.

Left skin has flange that overlaps other side at top front,  so performed ever so slightly bend edge with roller tool.  This minimizes edge rising up and gapping when later riveted.
Note slight difference in reflection along top edge above 3 holes.
Sec 7-4: Steps 6-9:  Cleco & final drill (ream) #30 holes in Top Rib and Counterbalance Rib.  Then deburr...   Interesting part was mounting the lead weight (counterweight for rudder).   #12 hole match drilled into rib.   Then dimpled to accept the AN509 countersink screw.    I used #12 Countersink on lead weight per instructions.  Then, since I did not have #10 dimple set, I sought guidance from Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools .  He gave me easy solution: use my #8 dimple set that is very close, and simply insert countersink screw into dimple, with lead weight backing up the rib.   With proper support a couple moderate hammer blows set the head in just a small amount deeper to a flush level.  Perfect.  Thanks Mike !

Dimples in rib, countersinks in lead weight

This is side for washer and nut...



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