I've started my adventure to build a Van's Aircraft RV14a. For several years, I've been planning to build an Experimental (homebuilt) airplane - once retired.
But first, I needed to get my Pilot's License. (Kinda key !) So... first things first: I retired March 2014 from Caterpillar - and started flying lessons in the Summer of 2014. Soloed a day after Christmas, and got my Private July 2015. Shop set up, tools acquisition, and practise kits during Fall launched me into my build starting Dec 31, 2015 !

I've chosen to build the RV14a since it's about 10% larger than Van's prior models - so it fits my 6'4" frame well. Van's is well known for great value & outstanding flying qualities. It's been a no brainer decision for me. A tour of their facilities and demo flight in Oct 2013 clinched the deal. My wife - also a pilot - exclaimed after her demo flight "retire NOW so you can build one of these". The RV14a fits my mission of a good compromise between cross country & aerobatics. Plus...I fit, too.

So far, one month into building, it's been rewarding. Very challenging, but certainly a learning experience. The builder community is terrific - as is Van's tech support. I'm finished with the Vert Stab and Rudder (Jan 2016). So... with a 5 month delivery lead time, I've ordered the Quick Build Wings and Fuselage.

I hope this blog assists other new builders, just like several others have been valuable to me. Plus it will serve to document my build step by step. Please drop me a line via the "contact me" form on lower RH margin.
Update: April 2020 relocated to Wickenburg, Az to escape Illinois winters.

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Empennage

Horiz Stab (5 hrs)

Sec 8-6, Step 1:  Completed grinding radii to forward corners of Nose Rib flanges. Just like done for Vert Stab.    Fluted flanges of  ALL ribs to insure all holes straight line on flanges.  Certain ribs are easier to bend slightly the web between flange segments to align holes ( straightening out the web also).
Step 2:  Two Nose Ribs have rear flanges opened 10 degrees each.   And Two HS1004 Inspar Ribs have rear flange opened same 10 degrees, plus front flanges closed 12.4 degrees (with forward portion of web opened 2.5 degrees.    Checked results against each other to confirm equal (mated end to end to check "zero" out each other).



Sec 8-7, Steps 1-3:  Cleco'd Nose Ribs and Inspar Ribs to Front Spars (2 each w/ special 10 degree bends on end flanges).  These are in middle to align with tail cone later.

Steps 4-5:  Disassemble to deburr edges and holes (except few per instructions).   Dimpled all #40 holes on all Nose, Inspar, and Inboard Inspar Ribs.   Main Squeeze again used since can't use C-Frame.   Carefully checked depth to insure flush w/ skin (used scrap alum piece same thickness as skin, since skin not yet dimpled).

Sec 8-8, Step 1:  Start to prep 901 Skins.  Removed inside & outside blue film.  While some builders leave film on to protect during build, I decided to keep simpler and totally remove film - as I did previously for rudder.   Marked holes NOT to be dimpled on each edge (this determined which is right vs left skin...so critical !)   Thus clearly labeled skins as  Top vs Bottom, and Left vs Right.
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