Empennage

Elevator ( 1.5 hrs )

Completed Step 3: Final Drill (ream) #40 holes in Trim Tab Skins, then disassemble.  Trimmed ends of TE to proper length.    Step 4: "Break" TE skins - to minimize "curl up" when riveted.  Used Cleaveland Edge Forming tool .

Step 5: Countersunk both sides of TE for Trim Tab...same as done previously for remainder of Elevator TE.

Empennage

Elevators  (2.5 hrs )

Step 3-5 in Sect 9-12: Built the Elevator Trim Pushrod.  Key is countersinking both sides, and performing "double" flush riveting.  Pleased with result, but I used slightly longer rivets...  -4 instead of -3.5.    The shop ends filled the countersink better (not sure 3.5 would have even worked !).

shop ends mostly fill countersink

Simply hand "sanded" using purple 3M scotchbrite.   I could make these smoother, but don't want to remove any more material.

Step 6:  Trimmed away excess material on Trim Tab Horns, and deburred.  Dimpled ( after first cleco'ing to Trim Tab Skin and final drill the #40 holes)

Sect 9-13 Steps 1-3: Cleco together top and bottom Trim Tab Skins with 2 Foam Ribs, TE, and Trim Tab Spar.   Insured Close Out Tabs on top were on outside.   Dimpled 3 holes each end, then drilled to final size with #33 drill (for blind rivets...later).

 

Empennage

Elevator ( 2 hrs )

Sect 9-11, Step 4:  Machine Countersunk holes specific to location for FWD hinge on Rear Spar where Trim Tab mounts.  (per instructions, cleco'd hinge in place under Rear Spar flange - this insures CS is guided by underlying hinge with holes, since CS goes through relatively thin Rear Spar flanges)  

Step 5:  Finished dimpling remainder of  Left Rear Spar and all of Right Rear Spar ...top and bottom.

Sect 9-12, Step 1:  Measured and adjusted flanges on Rear Spar and Front Spar using hand seamer.  Rear Spar was at correct angle, but Front Spars needed approx 1 degree tweak.

Empennage

Elevator  ( 4 hrs )

Completed Step 7 for RH top and bottom Skins and Step 8,  Countersink TE Wedges.  These countersinks required a few clicks (thousandths) on microstop to allow dimples in Skins to fully seat on TE.

1st countersink on  TE showing depth (used scrap piece prior to set depth).

Scrap alum sheet holds wedge level.  Angle in back insures positioning.

Step 1-3 @ Sect 9-10:  Dimpled Left Inboard Shear Clip only (1 of 3)...glad I labeled these during disassembly.   And dimpled Inboard Tip Ribs, and all Ribs.

I mounted Main Squeeze tool to workbench, as I'd seen in another builder's posting.   It was MUCH easier to hold a part while positioning into hole and squeezing - vs clamping a part and holding the Squeezer.   Don't recall the builder, but sure glad I discovered this arrangement !











Jumped to Sect 9-11, Steps 1-4:  Additional  #40 holes to dimple:  LH & RH Root Ribs, Trim Access Reinforcement Doublers and Brace.

This required using #6 screw dimple dies in the #27 holes for the Nutplates.   I used a K1100-06 Nutplate to confirm large dimple fit correctly.

Completed LH & RH Spars - lots of holes !    Also dimpled the #40 holes in all 7 K1100-06 Nutplates, from Sect 9-12, Step 2...working ahead a little.

Empennage

Elevator ( 3 hrs )

Step 5 at Sect 9-09:   Dimple #40 holes (3/32") on Counterbalance Skins.    Requires using Modified male Dimple die to avoid overlapping TE bend (reduced outer diameter at surface or face).   Completed Top & Bottom LH Elevator Skins.  Next doing same for RH Elevator skins.   Getting close to time to Prime then begin final assembly (yeah !)

Empennage

Elevator  (2 hrs )

Con'td  Sect 9-09 Step 4:   More deburring all holes and edges of Tip Rib Assembly (6 parts) and 4th of 4 Skins.    Scuff where planning to prime, before dimples.     Step 6 ahead of Step 5:  Used tool to "break" the TE of Counterbalance Skins  - to insure won't "curl up" when riveted.  Did now ahead of Van's step to dimple adjacent holes.    Takes time to edge deburr !

Empennage

Elevators  ( 5 hrs )

Continued Sect 9-09 at Step 3.  Finished Final Drill #40 and #30 for all holes on RH Elevator.  Then marked parts and dis-assembled.

Began Step 4:  Deburr all holes and edges.  Major Task for so few words in instructions!
...all four Skins, all Sparts, Shear Clips,  etc.   So many holes, and both sides of course.  Requires considerable time  - good music helps, along with comedy podcasts.

example skin edged, holes deburred, and scuffed.  Next step Dimples.

Note: I follow this order:  Deburr holes,  Deburr edges, Scuff ONLY surfaces that are mating with "work" done (ie intact Alclad will not be scuffed in open surfaces),  then Dimple (easier to scuff prior to dimple).   Next Acetone clean, and finally spray Primer on specific locations.

Still have 1 0f 4 skins to deburr holes and edges, and Tip Rib Assemblies.