Empennage

Elevator ( 4.5 hrs )

Sect 9-14:  Spar riveted to Bottom Skin, and riveted 2 Horns.  The specified 3.5 rivets were slightly long, so had to be careful with alignment while starting each shop end (back riveting) to prevent curl over.  

bottom skin with horn attached

Prepped for bonding T.E. w/ 3M UHB double sided tape.   Also cleaned scuffed zones for bonding Foam Ribs.   Steps 3-6 included first time using Tank Sealant (otherwise known as Pro Seal).  As expected - kinda messy, high viscosity,  tacky, and smelly.  But planned ahead by double layering latex gloves and plenty of paper towels handy.  Not so bad as some builders have noted, but they again I wasn't sealing lots of ribs, rivets, etc in the wing fuel tanks.

Pro Seal coating Foam Ribs, ready for Top Skin.

Attached front half Hinge...great alignment. (Next: flip over, weights added for 2-3 days)

Really pleased with straight, tight layering and flush rivets.  No warps or waviness, but I haven't riveted T.E. -- since this assembly first needs to fully cure under weights for 2-3 days.    Note:  good idea from other builders to wear extra layer of gloves  --  removing one layer half way through process help keep the trim tab (and me !)  free of sealant except where expected.  

Sect 9-15:  Masked around locations for Foam Ribs on main Skins - then scuffed with 150 grit sandpaper.  After cleaning, masked those areas to prepare to spray primer (only intend to spray specific areas where working on holes, etc has damaged Alclad protection ).

Empennage

Elevator  ( 3.5 hrs )

Prime baby, Prime !    Before starting further assembly, need to prime specific parts and surfaces that have their Alclad scratched, etc.    Scuffed, cleaned with acetone, and sprayed  - nice to do outside in 70 deg weather.   Lots of parts to scuff...took considerable time.

most but not all parts scuffed, ready to clean...then spray primer

removed tape on screws, and over labels on parts (critical for orientation, etc).  
I taped over labels on good Alclad surfaces, so don't require priming.

Empennage

Elevators ( 1.5 hrs )

Continued Sect 9-13, Step 6 & 7 for Trim Tab Spar;  countersunk at hinge mounting rivets, and dimpled other flange.   Step 8: Masked locations for 3 foam Ribs, per instructions sanded w/ 150 grit Alum Oxide paper.

Adhesive bond zones for Foam Ribs and TE.

Not planning to Prime skins interior, since Alclad is still intact otherwise.

Will protect these spots from any Primer application.  

Step 9 & 10:  Dimpled all remaining holes for Trim Tab Skins.     I checked Skin's dimpled holes fit into CS on Spar  - found needed 1-2 clicks deeper on microstop.  Now Skin fits tightly to Spar surface...ready to rivet.  Glad I checked.

Empennage

Elevator ( 1.5 hrs )

Completed Step 3: Final Drill (ream) #40 holes in Trim Tab Skins, then disassemble.  Trimmed ends of TE to proper length.    Step 4: "Break" TE skins - to minimize "curl up" when riveted.  Used Cleaveland Edge Forming tool .

Step 5: Countersunk both sides of TE for Trim Tab...same as done previously for remainder of Elevator TE.

Empennage

Elevators  (2.5 hrs )

Step 3-5 in Sect 9-12: Built the Elevator Trim Pushrod.  Key is countersinking both sides, and performing "double" flush riveting.  Pleased with result, but I used slightly longer rivets...  -4 instead of -3.5.    The shop ends filled the countersink better (not sure 3.5 would have even worked !).

shop ends mostly fill countersink

Simply hand "sanded" using purple 3M scotchbrite.   I could make these smoother, but don't want to remove any more material.

Step 6:  Trimmed away excess material on Trim Tab Horns, and deburred.  Dimpled ( after first cleco'ing to Trim Tab Skin and final drill the #40 holes)

Sect 9-13 Steps 1-3: Cleco together top and bottom Trim Tab Skins with 2 Foam Ribs, TE, and Trim Tab Spar.   Insured Close Out Tabs on top were on outside.   Dimpled 3 holes each end, then drilled to final size with #33 drill (for blind rivets...later).

 

Empennage

Elevator ( 2 hrs )

Sect 9-11, Step 4:  Machine Countersunk holes specific to location for FWD hinge on Rear Spar where Trim Tab mounts.  (per instructions, cleco'd hinge in place under Rear Spar flange - this insures CS is guided by underlying hinge with holes, since CS goes through relatively thin Rear Spar flanges)  

Step 5:  Finished dimpling remainder of  Left Rear Spar and all of Right Rear Spar ...top and bottom.

Sect 9-12, Step 1:  Measured and adjusted flanges on Rear Spar and Front Spar using hand seamer.  Rear Spar was at correct angle, but Front Spars needed approx 1 degree tweak.

Empennage

Elevator  ( 4 hrs )

Completed Step 7 for RH top and bottom Skins and Step 8,  Countersink TE Wedges.  These countersinks required a few clicks (thousandths) on microstop to allow dimples in Skins to fully seat on TE.

1st countersink on  TE showing depth (used scrap piece prior to set depth).

Scrap alum sheet holds wedge level.  Angle in back insures positioning.

Step 1-3 @ Sect 9-10:  Dimpled Left Inboard Shear Clip only (1 of 3)...glad I labeled these during disassembly.   And dimpled Inboard Tip Ribs, and all Ribs.

I mounted Main Squeeze tool to workbench, as I'd seen in another builder's posting.   It was MUCH easier to hold a part while positioning into hole and squeezing - vs clamping a part and holding the Squeezer.   Don't recall the builder, but sure glad I discovered this arrangement !











Jumped to Sect 9-11, Steps 1-4:  Additional  #40 holes to dimple:  LH & RH Root Ribs, Trim Access Reinforcement Doublers and Brace.

This required using #6 screw dimple dies in the #27 holes for the Nutplates.   I used a K1100-06 Nutplate to confirm large dimple fit correctly.

Completed LH & RH Spars - lots of holes !    Also dimpled the #40 holes in all 7 K1100-06 Nutplates, from Sect 9-12, Step 2...working ahead a little.