Riveted LH and RH Canopy Hinge Assemblies after deburr, dimple, and prime. Sect 38-06 Steps 8 & 9. Seemed shame to prime the hinges, since nice machined surfaces...but had to anyway.
Friday, August 25, 2017
Finish Kit
Canopy Hinge Assly ( 1.5 hrs )
Riveted LH and RH Canopy Hinge Assemblies after deburr, dimple, and prime. Sect 38-06 Steps 8 & 9. Seemed shame to prime the hinges, since nice machined surfaces...but had to anyway.
Riveted LH and RH Canopy Hinge Assemblies after deburr, dimple, and prime. Sect 38-06 Steps 8 & 9. Seemed shame to prime the hinges, since nice machined surfaces...but had to anyway.
Thursday, August 24, 2017
Finish Kit
Canopy Latch System ( 3 hrs )
Completed Canopy Latch System per Sect 38-05 & -06 through Step 7. Works smoothly. Lots of small Links and cotter pins. Used Handee Clamp (see in pic) to add nuts to bearing block bolts in hard to reach location under Roll Bar (sure glad I bought this a few months ago). Note: Torque Tube ( C-01438 ) was 1/8" too long (measured 42 7/8"), so removed 1/16" from each end. Otherwise bearing blocks ( C-01420 - L & -R) didn't line up with mounting holes, and interfered with Fuse longeron. At 42 3/4" fit perfectly.
Completed Canopy Latch System per Sect 38-05 & -06 through Step 7. Works smoothly. Lots of small Links and cotter pins. Used Handee Clamp (see in pic) to add nuts to bearing block bolts in hard to reach location under Roll Bar (sure glad I bought this a few months ago). Note: Torque Tube ( C-01438 ) was 1/8" too long (measured 42 7/8"), so removed 1/16" from each end. Otherwise bearing blocks ( C-01420 - L & -R) didn't line up with mounting holes, and interfered with Fuse longeron. At 42 3/4" fit perfectly.
 |
| prior shortening Torque Tube 1/16" each end, bearing block interfered with longeron, and bolts didn't align |
 |
| Handee Clamp, and Washer Wrench...essential ! |
 |
| extended pin for canopy retention |
 |
| extended |
 |
| retracted |
 |
| now w/ Pushrod |
Wednesday, August 23, 2017
Finish Kit
Canopy Latch assembly ( 2.5 hrs )
Assembling Canopy Latch mechanism Steps 9-11 per Sect 38-05. Built Pushrod, prepped Torque Tube, Installed Bellcrank Angles (see pic). Deburred, primed and painted the 2 Latch Bellcranks that I forgot to do yesterday, Sect 38-06.
Assembling Canopy Latch mechanism Steps 9-11 per Sect 38-05. Built Pushrod, prepped Torque Tube, Installed Bellcrank Angles (see pic). Deburred, primed and painted the 2 Latch Bellcranks that I forgot to do yesterday, Sect 38-06.
Tuesday, August 22, 2017
Finish Kit
Window "edge" painted ( 4 hrs )
Sprayed interior color onto misc. parts for Sect 38-04 & -05 (primed yesterday). Removed Window, prepared by lightly sanding masked area w/ 400 grit to help paint adhere. Painted masked off area that will hide sealant when installed. Riveted Skin Stiffeners to Fuse Skin and Roll Bar. Nancy was huge help pulling skin back so I could use Main Squeeze. Then she riveted while I bucked last 2 rivets each side for Fuse Skin. Touched up Roll Bar w/ interior paint.
Sprayed interior color onto misc. parts for Sect 38-04 & -05 (primed yesterday). Removed Window, prepared by lightly sanding masked area w/ 400 grit to help paint adhere. Painted masked off area that will hide sealant when installed. Riveted Skin Stiffeners to Fuse Skin and Roll Bar. Nancy was huge help pulling skin back so I could use Main Squeeze. Then she riveted while I bucked last 2 rivets each side for Fuse Skin. Touched up Roll Bar w/ interior paint.
 |
| after masking removed |
 |
| Window back to basement storage for now |
 |
| safely stored |
 |
| 2 blind rivets into Roll Bar for Stiffener |
 |
| 3 rivets into Stiffener, then final 2 for Skin |
Monday, August 21, 2017
Finish Kit
Canopy Latch Assembly ( 4 hrs )
Completed Sect 38-04 Steps 1 & 2 Stiffener Angles at Roll Bar (to Fuse Skin). Needed to trim Stiffeners to clear bottom edge of plexiglass. Worked on Latch Bellcrank Angles, Latch Links, Latch Pushrod, Latch Handle, and Canopy Latch per Sect 38-04 and -05. Dimpled, deburred and primed. Decided to leave Latch Handle and Canopy handle unpainted, so spent some extra time buffing. Trial fit Latch handles - works great and looks good. Will need to slightly trim Handle so flush with outside Fuse skin surface.
Completed Sect 38-04 Steps 1 & 2 Stiffener Angles at Roll Bar (to Fuse Skin). Needed to trim Stiffeners to clear bottom edge of plexiglass. Worked on Latch Bellcrank Angles, Latch Links, Latch Pushrod, Latch Handle, and Canopy Latch per Sect 38-04 and -05. Dimpled, deburred and primed. Decided to leave Latch Handle and Canopy handle unpainted, so spent some extra time buffing. Trial fit Latch handles - works great and looks good. Will need to slightly trim Handle so flush with outside Fuse skin surface.
 |
| Added electrical tape to edge of plexiglass ...ready to paint plexiglass when removed again, to hide sealant. |
 |
| Latch parts ready to prime |
 |
| trial fit... |
 |
| marked edge of handle to trim so flush when latched |
 |
| close up showing Canopy Latch & Handle interaction |
Saturday, August 19, 2017
Finish Kit
Window install ( 4 hrs )
Finished Machine C'sinking holes along Fwd edge (at Roll Bar), and sanding same edge with 220 then 400 grit. Worked very carefully, so consumed a lot of time. I decided to hand file a chamfer on trailing edge of window shim on Roll Bar. The Roll Bar ( essentially a rectangular tube) does not twist as it goes from top surface to vertical surface. Consequently, the window shim surface doesn't align w/ plexiglass by about 5 degrees. Tightening the screws holding the plexiglass will put a bend in the first 1/2"...so I've attempted to minimize that stress. Test fit -- overall, looks great ...and very pleased NO cracks...Yahoo! It's been a tense week working on the Window...so glad done with Sect 38-03.
Finished Machine C'sinking holes along Fwd edge (at Roll Bar), and sanding same edge with 220 then 400 grit. Worked very carefully, so consumed a lot of time. I decided to hand file a chamfer on trailing edge of window shim on Roll Bar. The Roll Bar ( essentially a rectangular tube) does not twist as it goes from top surface to vertical surface. Consequently, the window shim surface doesn't align w/ plexiglass by about 5 degrees. Tightening the screws holding the plexiglass will put a bend in the first 1/2"...so I've attempted to minimize that stress. Test fit -- overall, looks great ...and very pleased NO cracks...Yahoo! It's been a tense week working on the Window...so glad done with Sect 38-03.
 |
| shiny surface is new "chamfer" on window shim. Needed some touch up paint anyway. |
 |
| close up of fit |
Thursday, August 17, 2017
Finish Kit
Rear Window ( 5 hrs )
Completed enlarging holes to #27 size in plexiglass. Also drilled #27 holes in Fuse Skins, deburred, "broke" edges, then dimpled. Sanded edges of plexiglass along aft edge with 220, then 400 grit per Step 11 & 12 in Sect 38-03. Machine C'sunk Window for .025" dimpled skin (slightly deeper req'd vs screw head only).
Completed enlarging holes to #27 size in plexiglass. Also drilled #27 holes in Fuse Skins, deburred, "broke" edges, then dimpled. Sanded edges of plexiglass along aft edge with 220, then 400 grit per Step 11 & 12 in Sect 38-03. Machine C'sunk Window for .025" dimpled skin (slightly deeper req'd vs screw head only).
 |
To dimple skin above Roll Bar Brace, needed to use parts from C-frame.
Access hole in Brace allowed access from underneath - my Main Squeeze
from Cleaveland Tools would not work there
|
 |
| Edge sanded smooth, and Mach C'sunk for dimpled skin... |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)