Empennage

Rudder (no time to record )

Photo Op:   Vertical Stab and Rudder...

Empennage

Rudder  (4.5 hrs )

The BIG day...riveting the Trailing Edge (TE) per page 7-12, Step 1.   After again reviewing critical info provided in section 5.6 - 5.8  (back riveting, trailing edge rivet procedures, etc), I got started.
Started from center, and only riveted every 10th spot.   Initially only enough to "set" the rivet, to avoid starting any waves or bowing.    Plus, took extra time to alternate sides, even though required removing "weights, turning over rudder, and replacing rivets.   Gradually worked until every hole was riveted.   And finished each "shop end" to as flush as feasible in the dimples.

Aviation mags served well as soft weights along straight board.

Success !   Pleased with appearance  - but more importantly no twist or bowing,  and very little "waviness"   Sighting down the edge was rewarding.    Hard to get picture focused entire length..so these are best views.

 

 
Steps 2. 3 & 4:   Roll the leading edges that will tuck inside rear of Vertical Stab.    Used 1" broomstick with C Clamp as torquing handle.

Checked frequently w/ A, B & C templates for radius.    Challenging, but worked carefully, repeating as necessary to get the tighter radii needed.

White templates for radii checkning are on rudder in pic above.

Cleco'd....then reamed holes with #30.   Riveted with blind rivets as specified.

Done with Rudder "chapter" 7.    Next, starting the Horizontal Stabilizer.    Whoo Hoo !

Empennage

Rudder (4.5 hrs )

Page 7-10, Step 5:  Finished skins to spar riveting (both sides from middle to top; and middle to bottom).  Lots of 426 3-3 rivets set by Cleaveland Aircraft Tools Main Squeeze.   Sure works great !

Started page 7-11, Step 1:  Rivet Counterbalance Rib to skins.  Installed Counterbalance lead weight. Needed longer extension for 1/4" drive to reach via my smaller torque wrench in relatively tight space.  Got one at Menards for $2.50 today, so quickly completed at 20-25 in-lbs.  Good these are locknuts.

 

Step 2:  Completed Top Rib riveting.   Pleased with results.

Almost done...except for TE rivets and roll leading edge.

Empennage

Rudder (3.5 hrs )

Step 1 on page 7-10.   Inserted spar assly into rudder skins & riveted into shear webs using LP4-3 blind rivets (18).

Blind rivets at shear webs.   Univ heads from prior assl'y at hinge doublers, w/ nutplate for rod end bearing (hinge)

Step 2:  Added Attach Strip to bottom rib of LH skin.  Really difficult to get to shop head near aft end. So, per instructions, spread TE skins slightly.   Unfortunately, these were just "adhered" from prior steps via 3M UHB tape...but did separate, and appear to re-attach.   My 1/4" thk small bucking bar (even ground down to thinner corner) barely fit and was NOT sufficient to swell shop ends of 3/32 rivets - even with tungsten bucking bar back up.   Eventually spread enough to use Main Squeeze with thin set.    Whew...done, but a real challenge.

Step 3:  More blind riveting along bottom rib.  Also showing in pic above.

Step 4:  Rudder Horn brace installed.    Satisfying - since I could access all rivets using Main Squeeze tool.

Long set in Main Squeeze just barely enabled access to set Univ head rivets.

Step 5:  Remaining 3/32 rivets at edges along bottom done.   Only need to complete along Spar before moving on to next page.

Empennage

Rudder (1.5 hrs)

Completed all of page 7-9, steps 1-5.  Blind rivet shear clips & stiffeners together joining LH skin onto RH skin.    My wife was great assistance to "peel up" LH skin for access, as I worked from bottom to top, adding clecos at TE. These steps cannot be done alone !   The instructions are to insert only 1 into the aft stiffener location, hence the reminder X on the drawing.

Key is checking that the LH skin's stiffener at the aft location is on top, while the shear clips in front are on top of both stiffeners.  

As we worked from bottom stiffeners toward top, we removed covering from adhesive a few inches at a time, shifting clecos from bottom skin/TE to capture all 3 layers from top side.  ...ie LH/TE/RH skin.

Finished with weights on TE while tape adhesive sets up.   Using large alum angle already screwed to table edge, with another large alum angle on top, prior to adding boards and weights - all to keep TE straight.

Empennage

Rudder (4 hrs)

Page 7-8  Step 1:  Back rivet stiffeners to RH skin,  then stiffeners to LH skin.    

Pic below shows tapes over rivets after inserted.   Turned over skin, added stiffeners and proceeded to back rivet.

Primed only at rivet lines.  Ran out of Napa 7220, finished with Duplicolor "green".

Step 2:  Add bottom rib -B and Attach Strip to RH rudder skin. [ see pic below]  

Note:  no primer under TE location since taped off per instructions.  This enables tape adhesive to stick to aluminum instead of paint for better bonding)

Step 3 page 7-8: Blind rivet shear clips to RH side stiffeners/skin assembly.

Step 1 on page 7-9:  Applied 3M VHB tape to both sides of TE wedge.  First cleaned with acetone.  Let tape adhesive set up for 20 min.   Then peeled off covering on tape to apply to RH skin.  Careful aligning with dimpled skin to C'sink TE wedge.    Cleco'd 100%, then let adhesive set up on RH skin/TE interface.    No picture...

Empennage

Rudder (3.5 hrs )

Complete Step 7 from page 7-7.   I "spot" primed inside rudder skins along rivet lines (only surface having been worked…otherwise Alclad provides protection).

Step 8 on page 7-7: Countersink Trailing Edge.  Set up drill press to countersink perpendicular to TE wedge surface.   Both sides .... but had to be careful to go deep enough to fully accept skin dimples but insure not too deep to enlarge hole diameter (if meet from either direction) !   Careful iteration on trial piece was necessary, including trial fit with dimpled samples.

Also, finished dimpling spar and rib flanges.   Ready to start riveting...

Empennage

Rudder  (4 hrs )

Continuing page 7-7 with Dimpling.   RH & LH skins, flanges on ribs and spar, stiffeners.
Finally ready to clean all parts with Acetone.   Primed both sides after several hours drying on one side, but could have sprayed within minutes

Lots of small parts.   I'll do scuffed areas of rudder skins tomorrow - just not sufficient room for all at once.   Cold outside, but able to heat shop in mid 50's.   Used high intensity halogen lights to directly warm aluminum during and after spraying.

Empennage

Rudder  (4.5hrs)

Completed finl drill (ream)  holes on RH skin started yesterday with LH side per page 7-7.

Then onto Step 5: put slight bend on RH and LH skin trailing edges with roll former tool.   This will hold edge tighter to TE piece when riveted.

Hard to get good pic of slight bend.  This is prior to Acetone cleaning and Priming.

Next deburr ALL holes in both skins, all stiffeners, etc.      That's a lot of holes !

When that was done,  used maroon scotchbrite to scuff all mating surfaces (those with Alclad affected during processing.   I'm following sequence of  DDSDAP  (Drill, Deburr, Scuff, then Dimple, Acetone to clean, and Prime).    Van's tech support has told me OK to either prime before or after dimples...but I prefer after so can scuff surfaces better vs recessed dimples.  Also primer won't get removed during dimpling.

Empennage

Rudder (4.5 hrs)

Worked page 7-7 @ steps 1 & 2.   Cut trailing edge to correct length, and marked location in LH & RH rudder skins.     Set up drill press to #40 Drill Trailing Edge.  Used scrap Trailing Edge as wedge to orient 90 degrees to chord line of T.E.  Got idea from VAF forum in the Gotcha's thread.   [ see the xls file listed in Common traps  and mistakes -- in this case, a builder documented this recommendation]        

 Laser "crosshairs" really assist with initial set up at drill press.

 Step 3:  Attach LH and RH rudder skins, horn brace, and Attach Strips to Rudder skeleton.  Excellent fit of some complex parts, such as the horn brace.  

Lots of clecos required to set up for Final Drilling #40 holes with reamer.

100% cleco along trailing edge.   Worked from center outward toward top and bottom of rudder, alternately to provide minimum distortion.   Pleased so far with straightness of the T. E.

Also match drilled #40 leading edge one final hole at forward flange.   The fit of skins around counterbalance rib and tip rib seems really good.

Still need to complete one whole side.

Empennage

Rudder  (3.5 hrs)

Page 7-5.  Finished Step 2 riveting doublers, including Rudder Horn, Bottom Rib, & Shim.  Added plastic tie wrap clip with pop rivet.  Used several small washers to enable insertion from forward side (due to recess in clip).  Better to have rivet head on plastic vs expanding end.

Yeah!  Just in time, rec'd (6) K1000-6 platenuts, page 7-5.  Installed 2 needed 

Rudder skeleton is done,  so on to page 7-6.   Page 7-6: Step 1&2 cleco Tip Rib, Bottom Rib part B to skeleton.

Then cleco A to G stiffeners together (3 pieces each) and to skeleton.

Empennage

Rudder (1.5 hrs)

Step 1 on page 7-5:  Cleco assembly making rudder "skeleton" (spar, several doublers, etc).
 Proceeded to rivet per instructions in Step 2 & 3.  About 1/2 done before I needed to quit for the day.
Today I'd scheduled to go flying in the afternoon - and the weather was perfect.  Mid 40's and mostly sunny with moderate southerly winds.  Fun day in the air.

1 of 3 large K1000-6 platenuts installed in pics above.   These mount the swivel bearings "bolts" as part of the rudder hinges.  

Waiting on Van's delivery of 6 more - the original inventory was missing (only 1 of seven were in a bag in Empennage Kit discovered during inventoried back in Dec ).   They sent last week 6 more platenuts - but they were way too small !    So now they're re-sending the correct size with apologies. Unfortunately, of the 7 page inventory listed for the Empennage Kit, these were needed early in process.    Expecting tomorrow or Sat...so I'll work around by assembling the stiffeners.   Gotta remember to install before adding skins permanently....since other 2 platenuts will be enclosed !

Empennage

Rudder (2.5 hrs)

Page 7-4  at Step 9:   Scuffed using maroon scotchbrite ALL doublers, rudder spar, top rib, bottom rib, and counterbalance rib.  Also Rudder Horn (aluminum extrusion...without Alclad requires full coverage for corrosion protection).   This is prep to spray with self-etching primer.

Scuffed, but not yet cleaned via Acetone.

I've purchased a new brand of self-etching primer; Napa 7220.  Seems to cover better, dry quickly with less tendency to run...and I prefer the medium grey color.  My Vertical Stab interior was primed using Duplicolor self-etching primer - "army green".  It was OK, but from builders postings I believe the Napa 7220 is a better product.  Of course it costs more too.

Nap 7220 grey is dark enough to see coverage.

Still searching for a cost effective source for Sherwin Williams GBP988.   A local S-W automotive store wanted approx $20 a rattle can (12 oz) !  That's double Napa 7220 price.   I'm going to redouble my efforts via internet to find a good source at better prices.

Note:  Although some builders prime all interior parts completely, I don't believe cost & added weight are worthwhile.  Van's describes as optional.  Since I plan to always hangar my aircraft and avoid exposure to corrosive environments (such as coastal regions), I'm using a limited coverage approach.  My strategy:  prime anywhere two surfaces are mated and any aluminum not Alclad.  Since I'm buying Quick Build Wings and QB Fuselage,  those will be primed by Van's process using S-W P60G2 (no pigment).  This seems to be a "minimum" protection, so makes no sense to heavily prime remainder of airplane.

Shop Set Up

Used leftover (from spray booth) 4 mil visqueen to separate "shop" from rest of garage.    Temps in shop with 1500 watt quartz heater has been barely 50 F.   Central Illinois January weather has been about average, with overnight temps reaching 0F.  

This should enable at least 60F in shop, maybe more on coldest days.  And less air exchange whenever cars come and go, too.

 My wife will be much happier to join me when I need another hand.   Plus, the compressor is now on other side...maybe just a bit quieter, too.

Empennage

Rudder (5hrs)

Sec 7-3 at Steps 2 & 3:  Cleco doublers, rudder control horn and bottom rib onto Rudder spar.  Final drill (ie ream) with #40 drill all the 1/8 holes with doublers.   Disassemble, then deburr.  Took about one hour....mostly due to deburring all the holes and edges.

Onto Sec 7-4 at Steps 1 & 2:   prep Rudder skins.   Working on Right side first, removing noted edge, and dimpling one hole along top edge.   Then Steps 3 - 5 for Left side Rudder skin.  Remove small tab, and dimple one hole along top edge also.   Deburred both skin along all edges.  Long process requiring extra care due to relatively thin aluminum sheet.   I used long file for most of the effort, instead of scotchbrite wheel on grinder.

Left skin has flange that overlaps other side at top front,  so performed ever so slightly bend edge with roller tool.  This minimizes edge rising up and gapping when later riveted.

Note slight difference in reflection along top edge above 3 holes.

Sec 7-4: Steps 6-9:  Cleco & final drill (ream) #30 holes in Top Rib and Counterbalance Rib.  Then deburr...   Interesting part was mounting the lead weight (counterweight for rudder).   #12 hole match drilled into rib.   Then dimpled to accept the AN509 countersink screw.    I used #12 Countersink on lead weight per instructions.  Then, since I did not have #10 dimple set, I sought guidance from Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Aircraft Tools .  He gave me easy solution: use my #8 dimple set that is very close, and simply insert countersink screw into dimple, with lead weight backing up the rib.   With proper support a couple moderate hammer blows set the head in just a small amount deeper to a flush level.  Perfect.  Thanks Mike !

Dimples in rib, countersinks in lead weight

This is side for washer and nut...

Empennage

Rudder  ( 2 hr )

Sec 7-2  Stiffener deburring.   Lots of parts and edges !

Step 4:  Radius corners on forward ends of R912 and R903 counterbalance ribs...to ease fit to skins.
Also fluted each rib to straighten out ribs...slightly only since almost straight prior.