Steevo's RV14a Build Log: 08/25/16

I've started my adventure to build a Van's Aircraft RV14a. For several years, I've been planning to build an Experimental (homebuilt) airplane - once retired.

But first, I needed to get my Pilot's License. (Kinda key !) So... first things first: I retired March 2014 from Caterpillar - and started flying lessons in the Summer of 2014. Soloed a day after Christmas, and got my Private July 2015. Shop set up, tools acquisition, and practise kits during Fall launched me into my build starting Dec 31, 2015 !

I've chosen to build the RV14a since it's about 10% larger than Van's prior models - so it fits my 6'4" frame well. Van's is well known for great value & outstanding flying qualities. It's been a no brainer decision for me. A tour of their facilities and demo flight in Oct 2013 clinched the deal. My wife - also a pilot - exclaimed after her demo flight "retire NOW so you can build one of these". The RV14a fits my mission of a good compromise between cross country & aerobatics. Plus...I fit, too.

So far, one month into building, it's been rewarding. Very challenging, but certainly a learning experience. The builder community is terrific - as is Van's tech support. I'm finished with the Vert Stab and Rudder (Jan 2016). So... with a 5 month delivery lead time, I've ordered the Quick Build Wings and Fuselage.

I hope this blog assists other new builders, just like several others have been valuable to me. Plus it will serve to document my build step by step. Please drop me a line via the "contact me" form on lower RH margin.

Update: April 2020 relocated to Wickenburg, Az to escape Illinois winters.

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )

Dimpled LH Elevator skins at Tip mounting holes. Required removal of Counterweights to access most forward holes - so re-installed with new lock nuts & retorqued. This time I applied JB Weld epoxy adhesive to each counterweight to reduce likelihood of ever coming loose. Very carefully countersunk each fiberglass hole. These have to be deep enough for the dimples, but not too deep to start enlarging the holes !

When re-assembling Tip with clecos - I discovered a couple holes on top and bottom near center had the cleco "pull through". Due to countersinks, insufficient fiberglass at those holes to pull the shell outward 1/4 inch toward the skins (during drilling I used wood spacers temporarily to push Tip outward to skin surfaces...but didn't want to leave them inside unless absolutely necessary. So I reinforced hole perimeters with cyanoacrylate - then cleco's pulled fiberglass shells outward so flush with skin. Yeah ! ( Van's should design/process the Tips so actually oversized in center area...so would require lightly squeezing between top and bottom skins...instead of having to pull outward ) Expect OK when I blind rivet these next.