Empennage

Elevator  (3.5 hrs )

Big day today....joined Front Spar with Tips to the Skins, etc. It's been a long journey for the Elevators (seems as long as the Rudder + Vert Stab + Horiz Stab combined...)  

Bottom side LH Elevator...Front Spar installed.  "Stored" while work on RH side...

Sect 9-20, Steps 7-9: Riveted LH and RH Front Spar Assly's into Elevator Skins at Ribs with 18 blind rivets each side.  Very satisfying to have perfect alignment of all holes.

Sect 9-21, Steps 6-8: jumped one set ahead to complete Inboard Close-out of RH Elevator, since already on the table.  Tricky 2 rivets to E 921 Gusset - requires lifting corner of skin to reach shop ends.  My wife's smaller hands were really helpful.  Thanks Nancy !  

RH Inboard Close-out...done

 Steps 1-5:  Back up one set of instructions to do LH Elevator Inboard Close-out.  Again, several challenging rivets requiring lots of patience.   But each time figured out best way to position bucking bar (even one time able to use Main Squeeze to reach inside).  

Started Sect 9-22, Step 1 and Step 5 riveting Shear Clips to LH and RH Outboard Tips.   Tiring work today due to many different set ups and tools, and lots of reading and re-reading to be sure understood instructions and process expected.

Empennage

Elevator  (3 hrs )

Sect 9-19, Step 3:  LH & RH Elevator Skins top and bottom cleco'd together at Ribs...to blind rivet soon.   Sect 9-20, Step 1-4: Get to try out RV10 Special Bucking Bar  (borrowed from Terry Moushon, builder RV10    Thanks Terry !)  After shimming to prevent any deformation of TE skin "reverse bends", used special bucking bar to rivet Rear Spar.

Instructions have you start with LH Elevator, since those are on bottom (any oops will be less visible).   Good idea, but whole procedure was much easier than I'd feared.  Just insured bar was correctly positioned for each rivet.   Both LH and RH Elevators are A-OK.

Step 5-6:  Blind riveted Top and Bottom Ribs to each other, joining Elevator into an assembly for Left, and one for Right.   Sure was important to use extension handles on rivet tool !   I used cardboard under tool also, to prevent any "dings" to skins when each rivet "pops".

Empennage

Elevator ( 3 hrs )

Right Rear Spar riveted to Right Bottom Skin per Step 4 & 5 - with some exceptions.  Then Sect 9-18, Finished Right Bottom Skin via back riveting Ribs.

Sect 9-19, Step 1 Left Bottom Skin - 5 Ribs, since 6th is part of Trim Reinforcement Doubler.   Riveted Trim Access Reinforcement & Doubler Brace while adding final 2 Nutplates.   Note:  I add the machine screw during riveting to insure alignment (these are flush, so no interference, etc).

Step 2 Back Riveted 6 Ribs to Right Top Skin.  Started Step 3 - cleco'd LH Top & Bottom Skins with Ribs and Rear Spar so ready tomorrow to blind rivet top and bottom together.  It's beginning to look like an elevator!

Empennage

Elevator ( 4 hrs )

Sect 9-17, Step 3:  Completed rivets to Ribs & Shear Clips to LH and RH Rear Spars.  

Sect 9-18, Step 1 & 2: Primed all 4 Skins inside surface along rivet lines and similarly scuffed zones (only).    Removed tape from zones for bonding Foam Ribs and TE later (see pic below)

Then riveted Forward Hinge to Rear Spar & Top Left Skin.

Temporarily assembled Trim Tab hinge to confirm smooth operation.   Looks and works great !


















Step 3:  Back Riveted Ribs to LH Top Skin.

















Step 4- 5:  Right Rear Spar riveted to Right Bottom Skin.  Careful to mark locations not to be riveted at this time, too.  Plan to back rivet Ribs to this Skin tomorrow....

Empennage

Elevator ( 2.5 hrs )

Sect 9-17, Step 1:  Assembled Counterbalance Skin to Tip Ribs with 50 rivets each .  Step 2:  Riveted RH and LH Elevator Horns to Front Spar & Root Ribs.   Coming along !

So far I've kept correct orientation:  top vs bottom, left vs right. 

Takes double checking instructions & drawings ! 

  

Empennage

Elevators  ( 1hr )

Sect 9-14, Step 7:  Double Flush Riveted Trim Tab T.E. (after 3 days of curing tank sealant/adhesive for Foam Ribs).  Used RV14 Safety Pin Squeezing Tool to cope w/ TE wedge reverse angle to rivet 426 (flush) 3 - 4.5.  Cost me $25, but it makes this riveting easy.    Step 8:  Finished Trim Tab to install 6 blind rivets in close out tabs.   Looks great!

Empennage

Elevator (1 hr )

Finished Sect 9-16, Step 3 w/ rivets attaching LH & RH Tip Ribs and Root Ribs to the Front Spars.

I successfully used Main Squeeze for 2, but ultimately used rivet gun for other 2 rivets.

Empennage

Elevator  (3.5 hrs )

Sect 9-16, Step 3:  Deburred edges, Final Drilled (reamed) then deburred  all #30 holes on 4 E910 Hinge Reinforcement Plates.  Primed these prior to riveting to L & R Front Spars.  Added 4 K1000-6 nutplates that will anchor swivel bolts acting as hinges between Elevator and Horiz Stab. Instructions spec'd 470 4-6,  but first one had to be replaced after it curled as I began to squeeze.  Closer examine with gauge showed too long !   Checked alternate  -5 rivets, but gauge showed too short.  So I simply hand ground eight 470  4-6  rivets by just .5 to  -5.5 lengths.  These were perfect.

Front Spars w/  Hinge Reinforcement Plates and nutplates.

Jumped to Sect 9-17, Step 3 to rivet Shear Clips and Gussets to LH and RH Rear Spars, and cleco'd 12 Ribs ...to complete next session.  Gotta go mow since grass is growing like crazy this spring.

Empennage

Elevator ( 2.5 hrs )

Sect 9-15, Steps 1 & 2:  Prepped 4 Skins fro bonding Foam Ribs (8 places) and T.E.'s.   Sect 9-16, Steps 1 & 2:  Riveted Gusset to LH Root Rib (once again, proving critical to permanently label parts for orientation.  I masked over markings in small zone with undisturbed Alclad when spraying primer on parts that will be difficult to differentiate from duplicates, etc )  

Riveted E-903 and E-904 Tip Ribs to each other for Left and Right sides.  Two flush rivets are located where counterweights will be attached.  All others are 470 Universal style.   Oriented so shop ends will be covered by composite tips at final assembly.

Empennage

Elevator ( 4.5 hrs )

Sect 9-14:  Spar riveted to Bottom Skin, and riveted 2 Horns.  The specified 3.5 rivets were slightly long, so had to be careful with alignment while starting each shop end (back riveting) to prevent curl over.  

bottom skin with horn attached

Prepped for bonding T.E. w/ 3M UHB double sided tape.   Also cleaned scuffed zones for bonding Foam Ribs.   Steps 3-6 included first time using Tank Sealant (otherwise known as Pro Seal).  As expected - kinda messy, high viscosity,  tacky, and smelly.  But planned ahead by double layering latex gloves and plenty of paper towels handy.  Not so bad as some builders have noted, but they again I wasn't sealing lots of ribs, rivets, etc in the wing fuel tanks.

Pro Seal coating Foam Ribs, ready for Top Skin.

Attached front half Hinge...great alignment. (Next: flip over, weights added for 2-3 days)

Really pleased with straight, tight layering and flush rivets.  No warps or waviness, but I haven't riveted T.E. -- since this assembly first needs to fully cure under weights for 2-3 days.    Note:  good idea from other builders to wear extra layer of gloves  --  removing one layer half way through process help keep the trim tab (and me !)  free of sealant except where expected.  

Sect 9-15:  Masked around locations for Foam Ribs on main Skins - then scuffed with 150 grit sandpaper.  After cleaning, masked those areas to prepare to spray primer (only intend to spray specific areas where working on holes, etc has damaged Alclad protection ).

Empennage

Elevator  ( 3.5 hrs )

Prime baby, Prime !    Before starting further assembly, need to prime specific parts and surfaces that have their Alclad scratched, etc.    Scuffed, cleaned with acetone, and sprayed  - nice to do outside in 70 deg weather.   Lots of parts to scuff...took considerable time.

most but not all parts scuffed, ready to clean...then spray primer

removed tape on screws, and over labels on parts (critical for orientation, etc).  
I taped over labels on good Alclad surfaces, so don't require priming.

Empennage

Elevators ( 1.5 hrs )

Continued Sect 9-13, Step 6 & 7 for Trim Tab Spar;  countersunk at hinge mounting rivets, and dimpled other flange.   Step 8: Masked locations for 3 foam Ribs, per instructions sanded w/ 150 grit Alum Oxide paper.

Adhesive bond zones for Foam Ribs and TE.

Not planning to Prime skins interior, since Alclad is still intact otherwise.

Will protect these spots from any Primer application.  

Step 9 & 10:  Dimpled all remaining holes for Trim Tab Skins.     I checked Skin's dimpled holes fit into CS on Spar  - found needed 1-2 clicks deeper on microstop.  Now Skin fits tightly to Spar surface...ready to rivet.  Glad I checked.

Empennage

Elevator ( 1.5 hrs )

Completed Step 3: Final Drill (ream) #40 holes in Trim Tab Skins, then disassemble.  Trimmed ends of TE to proper length.    Step 4: "Break" TE skins - to minimize "curl up" when riveted.  Used Cleaveland Edge Forming tool .

Step 5: Countersunk both sides of TE for Trim Tab...same as done previously for remainder of Elevator TE.

Empennage

Elevators  (2.5 hrs )

Step 3-5 in Sect 9-12: Built the Elevator Trim Pushrod.  Key is countersinking both sides, and performing "double" flush riveting.  Pleased with result, but I used slightly longer rivets...  -4 instead of -3.5.    The shop ends filled the countersink better (not sure 3.5 would have even worked !).

shop ends mostly fill countersink

Simply hand "sanded" using purple 3M scotchbrite.   I could make these smoother, but don't want to remove any more material.

Step 6:  Trimmed away excess material on Trim Tab Horns, and deburred.  Dimpled ( after first cleco'ing to Trim Tab Skin and final drill the #40 holes)

Sect 9-13 Steps 1-3: Cleco together top and bottom Trim Tab Skins with 2 Foam Ribs, TE, and Trim Tab Spar.   Insured Close Out Tabs on top were on outside.   Dimpled 3 holes each end, then drilled to final size with #33 drill (for blind rivets...later).

 

Empennage

Elevator ( 2 hrs )

Sect 9-11, Step 4:  Machine Countersunk holes specific to location for FWD hinge on Rear Spar where Trim Tab mounts.  (per instructions, cleco'd hinge in place under Rear Spar flange - this insures CS is guided by underlying hinge with holes, since CS goes through relatively thin Rear Spar flanges)  

Step 5:  Finished dimpling remainder of  Left Rear Spar and all of Right Rear Spar ...top and bottom.

Sect 9-12, Step 1:  Measured and adjusted flanges on Rear Spar and Front Spar using hand seamer.  Rear Spar was at correct angle, but Front Spars needed approx 1 degree tweak.

Empennage

Elevator  ( 4 hrs )

Completed Step 7 for RH top and bottom Skins and Step 8,  Countersink TE Wedges.  These countersinks required a few clicks (thousandths) on microstop to allow dimples in Skins to fully seat on TE.

1st countersink on  TE showing depth (used scrap piece prior to set depth).

Scrap alum sheet holds wedge level.  Angle in back insures positioning.

Step 1-3 @ Sect 9-10:  Dimpled Left Inboard Shear Clip only (1 of 3)...glad I labeled these during disassembly.   And dimpled Inboard Tip Ribs, and all Ribs.

I mounted Main Squeeze tool to workbench, as I'd seen in another builder's posting.   It was MUCH easier to hold a part while positioning into hole and squeezing - vs clamping a part and holding the Squeezer.   Don't recall the builder, but sure glad I discovered this arrangement !











Jumped to Sect 9-11, Steps 1-4:  Additional  #40 holes to dimple:  LH & RH Root Ribs, Trim Access Reinforcement Doublers and Brace.

This required using #6 screw dimple dies in the #27 holes for the Nutplates.   I used a K1100-06 Nutplate to confirm large dimple fit correctly.

Completed LH & RH Spars - lots of holes !    Also dimpled the #40 holes in all 7 K1100-06 Nutplates, from Sect 9-12, Step 2...working ahead a little.

Empennage

Elevator ( 3 hrs )

Step 5 at Sect 9-09:   Dimple #40 holes (3/32") on Counterbalance Skins.    Requires using Modified male Dimple die to avoid overlapping TE bend (reduced outer diameter at surface or face).   Completed Top & Bottom LH Elevator Skins.  Next doing same for RH Elevator skins.   Getting close to time to Prime then begin final assembly (yeah !)

Empennage

Elevator  (2 hrs )

Con'td  Sect 9-09 Step 4:   More deburring all holes and edges of Tip Rib Assembly (6 parts) and 4th of 4 Skins.    Scuff where planning to prime, before dimples.     Step 6 ahead of Step 5:  Used tool to "break" the TE of Counterbalance Skins  - to insure won't "curl up" when riveted.  Did now ahead of Van's step to dimple adjacent holes.    Takes time to edge deburr !

Empennage

Elevators  ( 5 hrs )

Continued Sect 9-09 at Step 3.  Finished Final Drill #40 and #30 for all holes on RH Elevator.  Then marked parts and dis-assembled.

Began Step 4:  Deburr all holes and edges.  Major Task for so few words in instructions!
...all four Skins, all Sparts, Shear Clips,  etc.   So many holes, and both sides of course.  Requires considerable time  - good music helps, along with comedy podcasts.

example skin edged, holes deburred, and scuffed.  Next step Dimples.

Note: I follow this order:  Deburr holes,  Deburr edges, Scuff ONLY surfaces that are mating with "work" done (ie intact Alclad will not be scuffed in open surfaces),  then Dimple (easier to scuff prior to dimple).   Next Acetone clean, and finally spray Primer on specific locations.

Still have 1 0f 4 skins to deburr holes and edges, and Tip Rib Assemblies.

Empennage

Elevators ( 2 hrs )

Sect 9-09, Setp 2 Attached (cleco'd) LH and RH Elevator Horns.   #30 (ie 1/8" holes) drilled at twelve times each horn - but those rivets are critical !

 Step 3: Final Drilled all mating part holes not already done for Elevator assembly.  Then dis-assembled - but critical to mark parts for later re-assembly.  (used permanent marker with tape over to protect as scuff, acetone clean and prime parts.  these are in areas entirely still covered 100% Alclad, so remain corrosion protected after remove tape at re-assembly)  Only got RH Elevator completely "done", so planning next session to do same for LH side.

Empennage

Elevator  ( 2.5 hrs )     April 6 , 2016

Cont'd Sect 9-08, Steps 2 & 3:  Cleco'd RH and LH Tip Assly's to Bottom Skins and Shear Clips.   Final Drilled #30 holes 6 places each at interface to sub-assembly structure.

Counterbalance skin goes UNDER the Top Skin.

Step 4: RH Top Skin cleco'd w/ Trailing Edge added.    Unique TE w/ thicker at end (Van's adjusted pitch sensitivity & control harmony on the RV14's with this small detail).    Trimmed off excess length of TE, grinding to fit perfectly while also deburring edges.     Per instructions, matched end to E 912 composite tip with slight taper top and  bottom.  Didn't take much, because tip has some thickness of several fiberglass layers at it's own TE.   Repeated for LH Elevator (much shorter TE due to Trim Tab).  

Impressive how top and bottom close out tabs fit perfectly with Shear Clip.  I'd bent these 90 deg earlier, with one at 1/32 and one at 1/64 from bend line, to allow for overlap.

Empennage

Elevator (0.5 hrs)

Cont'd Sect 9-07:  Completed Steps 4-6 for Trim Tab Hinges - Drilled #40 holes, and trimmed ends flush.   Re-assembled to check alignment....seems very good.

Aft hinge 1/2 match drilled to Trim Tab Spar

re-assembled:  fits great.   Will trim rod later....

Sect 9-08 at Step 1:  Drilled small gussets in Left and Right Elevator assemblies.

Empennage

Elevator (4 hrs)

Continued Sect 9-04 w/ Step 4 & 5.  Drilled 2 holes in end of Trim Tab Hinge while designating one Aft and other Fwd half.  Sect 9-05 Step 1&2:  Drilled 2 holes in Left Front Spar at 3/8" and 5/8" using Uni-Bit (tested/practised 1st w/ drill press on sample alum since 1st time doing this procedure).   Cleco'd Left and Right Front Spars to Bottom Elevator Skins.

Right side shown

Sect 9-06 Steps 1-4:  Assembled Ribs to Front Spar & Bottom Skins, along with Rear Spar and Root Rib.  Also added Gussets and Shear Clips.    Left side has more w/ doubler, etc for Trim actuator mounting.

Left side with Trim Tab mounting, etc.

Sect 9-07 Steps 1-3:  Positioned precisely Fwd 1/2 piano Trim Tab Hinge.  Match Drilled #40 with extra care to insure aligned...1st with clamps, replacing with clecos as hole drilled.   Trimmed excess length of hinge.

Trial re-attach Aft Hinge ...perfect alignment since pin slips in easily. 

Step 4:  Cleco & Clamped Aft 1/2 Hinge to Trim Tab Spar.   Ready to match drill tomorrow.