Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 3 hrs )

Layed up my first fiberglass "sheet" -  two layers of  9 oz ( medium weight ).   Per instructions, selected scrap aluminum and marked outline, then waxed surface using candle wax.   The green cloth is nylon release ply.  Since not sure this will work well, I've layed extra material to test.   Using West System 105 Resin, and 206 slow Hardener.   Also purchased West System pump pack, which makes dispensing correct amounts really simple and clean.    The exposed surface seems to be smooth enough for the inside surface anyway.   Otherwise, repeated trimming RH Tip just as I did yesterday for LH.  Drilled #40, then Final Drilled via #30 reamer.  This side seemed to go quicker since I learned considerably from LH Tip.

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Empennage Fairings  ( 2 hrs )

Sect 12-06.  Trimmed Horiz Stab Tip Fairing to fit LH side.  Lots of iterations (can't add material back easily) to accomplish 1/8" gap.  I created a "template" to transfer front edge of Elevator to rear edge of Tip. Once trimmed,  I then removed 1/8" for clearance...checking swing clearance of elevator as I progressed.

1  transfer front edge Elev to Tip.

2     trimmed.

3  adding 1/8" clearance line

4  Clearance accomplished

Drilled #40, then FD #30 reamer, using cleco's as I progressed.  Cut template for the fiberglass sheet to fit just inside - slightly recessed for best clearance as Elev swings up and down.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 2.5 hrs )   Monday, Aug 29

Completed blind riveting LH and RH Elev Tips.   First C'Sunk holes in RH Tip, and dimpled RH Elev.     Added cyanoacrylate to each fiberglass hole...it really strengthens the fibers surrounding the hole, since very thin after C'sinking each.  This enables fiberglass to be brought up to Elev surface without "stripping out" the holes with clecos, or the blind rivets when inserted.     Had time to prepare LH and RH Horiz Tip fairings to 1/2" flanges.

Dimpled & Countersunk.  Ready to blind rivet.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )

Dimpled LH Elevator skins at Tip mounting holes.  Required removal of Counterweights to access most forward holes - so re-installed with new lock nuts & retorqued.  This time I applied JB Weld epoxy adhesive to each counterweight to reduce likelihood of ever coming loose.   Very carefully countersunk each fiberglass hole. These have to be deep enough for the dimples, but not too deep to start enlarging the holes !

When re-assembling Tip with clecos - I discovered a couple holes on top and bottom near center had the cleco "pull through".  Due to countersinks, insufficient fiberglass at those holes to pull the shell outward 1/4 inch toward the skins (during drilling I used wood spacers temporarily to push Tip outward to skin surfaces...but didn't want to leave them inside unless absolutely necessary.   So I reinforced hole perimeters with cyanoacrylate - then cleco's pulled fiberglass shells outward so flush with skin.  Yeah !   ( Van's should design/process the Tips so actually oversized in center area...so would require lightly squeezing between top and bottom skins...instead of having to pull outward )   Expect OK when I blind rivet these next.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 3 hrs )

Worked on LH and RH Elevator Tips (sect 12-05)...trimming to fit at TE, and reduced flanges to 1/2".  Very satisfying to see good fit up along entire edge of Elevator(s).   Drilled #30 holes in both, cleco'ing as I went.  ( Note:  added simple wood blocks as temporary spacers to spread fiberglass tips in middle section for good fit prior to drilling ).  Used reamer to Final Drill the  #40 holes for RH.   Ready to do same for LH, but decided to go swimming instead !

Empennage

Empennage Fairings (3 hrs )

Added flock to epoxy, then adhered doubler to Bottom Fairing along with 2 flush blind rivets.   Used toothpicks to keep epoxy out of 2 tapped holes.   Moved to Sect 12-05 Rudder Tip -- trimmed to 1/2 inch and removed tail area to clear T.E.    Once satisfied with fit,  drilled 18 holes (#40 followed by #30).  Then dimpled skin, and machine C'sunk the fiberglass...and blind riveted.   Pleased with excellent fit and very solid attachment.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )

Sect 12-03 - Added Rudder Fairing Doubler (alum) to Rudder Bottom ...to ultimately mount LED taillight.   This is last major step involving the Bottom fiberglass - so drilling and cutting into this area now was a little intimidating. (don't want to start this over!)     So proceeded cautiously...and it turned out fine.   I was extra careful tapping the small 4-40 threads in this thin doubler...especially aluminum.   Not convinced these threads are robust...so I'll be seeking some alternatives to re-inforce.

Set up for tapping 4-40 threads in doubler.   I hand turned chuck 
while applying steady modest down force.  Whew...A-OK !

Ready to bond with epoxy while installing via 2 blind rivets.

Empennage

Empennage Fairing  ( 3 hrs )

Sect 12-02 completed with Steps 6-7: dimpled nutplates, machine countersunk two locations on rudder horn.  Riveted all 18 nutplates.   3 of these near aft end are really tough to rivet (w/ small gap between LH and RH skins).  Needed to use my thinner bucking bar plate with the tungsten bar as backup for sufficient mass.  But I got 'em done.     Installed fiberglass bottom with 18 flush head screws.   Turned out really good...YEAH !

nutplates installed with rivets.   Need to redo primer...

Rudder Bottom Fairing installed with 18 flush screws.  SWEET !

Like the fit up.   Next: install LED tail light.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 1.5 hrs )

Completed nutplate rivet holes (#40's), and dimpled.   2 more remain requiring machine countersink in thicker material at rudder horn.    Those toward aft end of Rudder were challenging...but feasible using Cleaveland Tools "Close Quarters Die Set"    But... I forgot I could have used the "Tight Fit Dimpling Fixture"   that I also have from Cleaveland Tools.

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Empennage Fairings  ( 2 hrs )

Final drilled eighteen #27 holes for attachment screws.  Decided to Machine C'sink fiberglass Rudder Bottom while still attached w/ cleco's - so #27 holes in alum underneath guide #6 C'sink (vs Van's instructions to do last and while unattached).   My trial piece of only fiberglass seemed to allow C'sinks to drift as fiberglass hole was enlarged.    Then started drilling rivet holes for nutplates using #6 screw to hold in position.

countersinks in fiberglass (used clecos to hold as Machine C'sunk.

starting to add rivet holes for nutplates

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 3 hrs )

Finished correction of Rudder Cable with installation of 8 blind rivets to retain nylon guides.  A-OK now.  See Aug 4 posting.  

Sect 12-02 cont'd with Step 3:  Fit up of Rudder Bottom Fairing requires lots of on/off cycles testing alignment and fit along edge with the Rudder - sand and file a little each time.   But fit-up is now excellent.  So drilled (18) #40 holes...cleco'd as I went.  Ready to install nut plates after enlarge to #27.

Empennage

Empennage Fairings ( 2 hrs )

Started Sect 12-02 Empennage Fairings by trimming Rudder Bottom Fairing.  Used 3" cut off wheel in die grinder (just purchased at Harbor Freight for $13....so I have a cheap one to avoid using oil to not contaminate fiberglass pieces).  Use dremel for some details.   Hand sanding edges to get good finish up to the molded in trim line.   Discovered opening for Rudder Horn needed to increase almost 5mm to 38mm wide - surprised trim line wasn't more accurate.   Real challenging to insure how much to take off forward vs aft side...but worked out entire 5mm was needed removed from forward side after measuring several different ways (measure 3 times, cut once !).  

Empennage

Empennage Attach ( 1 hr )

Attached LH and RH Elevators to H.S, and re-measured full Up and full Down.   Some extra clearance needed at Aft Fuselage to Elev Horns in order to provide full 30deg Up, and 25deg Down.  Van's has told me about 25deg Up and 20deg Down would be sufficient ( I'm limited now to about 26 Up, and 22 Down -- but instructions call for 30/25....so I'm planning to gain a few more degrees).  Seems some builders have had similar results, so not surprised.

Checked Rudder clearance to Elevator, and both directions meet 19mm required.  Thus no change to Stops needed (yeah!).

Installed Rudder Cables, but needed to reverse so mounted under Rudder Horn to clear Rudder Stops. I have inquiry to Van's since my cable end is not a clevis, but a simple end.
UPDATE: Van's confirmed I installed Rudder Cables backwards.  So in process to reverse front to back, so expected clevis end is at Rudder Horn.   Carefully drilled out blind rivets holding plastic guides, tied string to cable end, and pulled out.  Simple to use same string to pull back through fuselage now attached to correct end.   Note: Instructions only tell you to check plastic sleeve is at forward end...and mine was supplied with the plastic sleeve slipped onto wrong end, so I proceeded to install reversed.  Diagrams are subtle, but closer inspection does show the rudder attachment via clevis end...which is how I originally thought they should attach.

Not right...drat!   Determined Rudder Cables in reverse Fore/Aft  

Corrected Rudder Cable installation - clevis end for Rudder Horn !
(Aug 15: carefully drilled out 4 blind rivets per side, replaced)

Empennage

Empennage Attach ( 2 hrs )

Sect 11-07 & -08 mounted Vert Stab to Fuselage (temporary  - so delayed adding Ring Terminal to ground wire - until much later at Sect 36).   Then mounted Rudder per Sect 11-08 & -09;  each rod end bearing set as specified...and all 3 fit really well - NO binding or need to adjust middle one as noted in instructions.   Plenty of clearance to rolled leading edge of Rudder (vs tight with Elevator).

 

 

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Empennage Attach (4 hrs )

Drilled opposite Elev Horn using Drill Guide Block.  Checked T.E. alignment:  close but not perfect (I jigged with straight edges to hold TE in alignment, so surprised wasn't dead on)   So I contacted Van's builder support, and discussed with Scott Risan.  He advised A-OK, within normal range.   Good news because difficult to modify now !

Sect 11-05 to Position and bolt on Horiz Stab to Aft Fuselage.  Drilled four 1/4" holes through Rear Spar of HS, and bolted on Vert Stab Bracket.    The mounting hole for V.S. is off-center slightly to left about 5 mm...as noted in instructions.  (offsets left turning from engine and prop torques.  This is a clever way to do it, and was probably easily adjusted in prototypes built to allow for revision)

drill guide block used at Elev Horn

Note off center hole for VS mounting

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Empennage Attach (2  hrs)

Sect 11-02 and -03 today...matched drilled #30 then step drilled to 1/4" LH, then RH Elevator Horns for Steps 4-6.   Re-assembled with AN4-13A bolt and specified washers.   Rotation of Elevators feels great...no slop or drag.   Proceeded with Steps 8-10 setting up T.E. to be perfectly aligned, drilling 1st #40 hole, then #12 in first horn.  Note: Van's confirmed this was priority vs both Elevators held in "trail" position at their counterweights (ie flush w/ elevator at end).    Mine are slightly off one end vs other when T.E. is aligned....but so was the RV14a at Oshkosh...about same amount.  hmmmm?

temp nut on AN4-13A bolt at inboard hinge.  Yeah !

jigged TE to be aligned  (elevators upside down to access last holes to drill )